The first step to determine exactly what is unusual about your car's performance. If there is a sound coming from the engine, determine how to best describe it before taking it in to the dealer. Many people bring their cars in without truly knowing how to describe their problem and if the issue stops when the dealer or mechanic drives the car themselves, it is unlikely they will be able to help. While it may sound funny, ask other people to describe the sound you're hearing and determine whether its a pinging, screeching, ticking etc. Mechanics, technicians, and even forum posters are accustomed to hearing issues described this way and can get a good idea of what the issue is. If the issue causes a change in appearance, note the color change if there is a discoloration or what the texture resembles.
The next step is to see if your problem is in isolation or if it has occurred as a group of related problems. For example, if you hear a ticking coming from the engine while idling and know that the oil on the dipstick is highly viscous you likely need an oil change or there is an issue in the oil delivery system. Either of these factors in isolation wouldn't necessarily mean that oil is the issue but the fact that they both are occurring pretty much ensures that oil is the culprit. Similar to diagnosing sickness, knowing that you have a fever AND nausea is much more valuable to the doctor than just saying you have a fever as it narrows down the potential illnesses. Make a list of all of the "problems" you are noticing even if they seem completely unrelated as you can later on narrow down which may be in connection with each other.
Once you have a list of problems, try google searching your make and model along with the list of problems. This will almost always take you to a forum where someone else has experienced a similar issue. I have never been led astray by the forums I've used (audiforums and allfordmustangs) and having users that can relate to your struggles can be useful in multiple ways. When the blower motor failed in my Audi causing the climate control system to go haywire, I mentioned a ticking of the engine, a pulsing sound coming from the glovebox, and the lack of air blowing out the vents when I turned on the fan. The ticking coming from the engine turned out to be completely unrelated to the core problem but audiforums confirmed the pulsing sound and lack of air coming from the vents indicated a faulty blower motor.
Another way that you can diagnose your car's problems or simply check the health of your car is by buying a OBD-II code reader and software to go with it. Code readers work by communicating with your car's ECU (computer) and sending a status report in the form of a code defined by the manufacturer. By plugging the code reader into your car's OBD-II port (all cars have them), you can see if any codes are being thrown by the computer indicating a malfunction. Some code readers only give you the codes and leave you up to finding out what part of the car is working improperly. Others do the work for you and would tell you for example "Code 6E08979- Ignition". This would likely mean that there is an issue in the ignition system which includes the battery, spark plugs, alternator, and others. OBD-II readers can also sometimes clear the codes so that you can remove check engine lights or other warnings from the dash. I would warn only to do this if you are certain the issue does not impact driving as check engine lights usually exist for a reason. On my Audi, I was able to clear a check engine light with a friend's code reader after researching the issue and finding out that if you get your oil changed at Jiffy Lube with your A3 and don't tell the technician to clear the "regular service interval" code the check engine light comes on. Code readers range from about 12 dollars for a generic code reader (only reads OBD-II defined codes) to about a hundred dollars for ones that find practically all manufacturer-specific codes and can update to ensure accuracy. I have not had a great deal of experience using code readers but looking over the reviews on Amazon and Newegg suggests that cheaper models get the job done in terms of identifying common issues with the more expensive versions only becoming worthwhile if you have a fairly unique issue.
Once you have diagnosed your car's problem you can then determine either one of two things. First, you can see if that rattle coming from the left-rear tire is something you can easily fix and save hundreds of dollars in labor from a mechanic. And second, if the problem is more severe and requires the work of a professional, you can be sure you are getting the right part fixed and not getting ripped off by a deceitful mechanic.
Another way that you can diagnose your car's problems or simply check the health of your car is by buying a OBD-II code reader and software to go with it. Code readers work by communicating with your car's ECU (computer) and sending a status report in the form of a code defined by the manufacturer. By plugging the code reader into your car's OBD-II port (all cars have them), you can see if any codes are being thrown by the computer indicating a malfunction. Some code readers only give you the codes and leave you up to finding out what part of the car is working improperly. Others do the work for you and would tell you for example "Code 6E08979- Ignition". This would likely mean that there is an issue in the ignition system which includes the battery, spark plugs, alternator, and others. OBD-II readers can also sometimes clear the codes so that you can remove check engine lights or other warnings from the dash. I would warn only to do this if you are certain the issue does not impact driving as check engine lights usually exist for a reason. On my Audi, I was able to clear a check engine light with a friend's code reader after researching the issue and finding out that if you get your oil changed at Jiffy Lube with your A3 and don't tell the technician to clear the "regular service interval" code the check engine light comes on. Code readers range from about 12 dollars for a generic code reader (only reads OBD-II defined codes) to about a hundred dollars for ones that find practically all manufacturer-specific codes and can update to ensure accuracy. I have not had a great deal of experience using code readers but looking over the reviews on Amazon and Newegg suggests that cheaper models get the job done in terms of identifying common issues with the more expensive versions only becoming worthwhile if you have a fairly unique issue.
Once you have diagnosed your car's problem you can then determine either one of two things. First, you can see if that rattle coming from the left-rear tire is something you can easily fix and save hundreds of dollars in labor from a mechanic. And second, if the problem is more severe and requires the work of a professional, you can be sure you are getting the right part fixed and not getting ripped off by a deceitful mechanic.
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